Tuesday, January 27, 2015

Runway Report: Chanel Spring 2015 Couture

 I contemplated staying up till 3 AM EST to watch the pictures from the Chanel Spring 2015 Couture come in live, but I decided on sleep instead. That was a good life decision, because this is one of my least favorite collections from Chanel EVER. This collection is like a 1980s ugly floral wonderland. It makes me think of grandmas couch at her beach house that is covered in plastic to keep it looking "new." Karl Lagerfeld tired to make the collection youthful with crop tops and sheerness, but it just ended up looking extremely dated.
I am hoping that when stars like Kirsten Stewart, Diane Kruger, Lily Collins, Keira Knightley, Emma Stone and Lupita Nyong'o wear this collection on the red carpet that it is given a much more elegant life. I try to watch these collection presentations and try to strip down the theatrics to see just the clothes, separated from shoes, hair, makeup, and other accessories. I had a hard time doing that collection. I looked at it multiple times before writing this review and I definitely can see good bones but it is going to take women who know how to work a red carpet to make me love anything from this collection. Editorial is going to be interesting as well. Will the tulle covered straw beach hats dictate what editorial themes we see? I am scared. But with Elie Saab and Valentino tomorrow I know that I will get back in good graces with couture week.

Runway Report: Yiqing Yin Spring 2015 Couture

There has only ever been one absolutely amazing celebrity moment from designer Yiquin Yin, Audrey Tautou at the Cannes Film Festival opening ceremony in 2013. The designer showcased her Spring 2015 Couture collection in Paris yesterday. Known for her amazing modern draping the collection did not disappoint. Mostly showing greys, black, and white there were some pops of color through some elegant blues. The pieces presented give off this glam rock type of look and I have to say that I hope we see celebrities embrace this collection on the red carpet. The grey asymmetrical cocktail dress and the blue draped gown would be perfect Grammy dresses for the likes of Miley Cyrus or Rihanna.

Runway Report: Alexis Mabille Spring 2015 Couture

Alexis Mabille really showcased an amazing collection last night in Paris for Spring 2015 Haute Couture. The designer, known for his intimate couture presentations, showcased just 22 looks (each just more breathtaking than the last) to a small audience, which included Dita von Teese. Asian inspiration, I am sure thanks to the 2015 Costume Institute Gala theme "Chinese Whispers," was heavily prevalent with classic couture styling. This is a very sellable collection and I am praying that we see a lot of this under-appreciated designer on the red carpet. The finale dress, an antique white gown with a GIANT midnight blue satin bow, needs a moment on the cover of a magazine.
Celebrity fans of the house include Lea Seydoux, Berenice Bejo, Zoe Saldana, Dita von Teese and Keira Knightley and I would love to see the likes of Cate Blanchett, Emma Stone and Jessica Chastain also learn to love this brand. Having mostly been showcased on foreign red carpets I can see a lot of these looks during Cannes and maybe one of the Asian inspired looks at the Met Ball. I also have to say that the beauty look was one that I loved. Strands of ostrich feathers and fresh elegant faces just enhanced and added to the whimsey of each look as it walked down the runway

2015 Berlin International Film Festival: Helen, Jena, Lea, & Lily Red Carpet Wish List

Runway Report: Giambattista Valli Spring 2015 Couture

Giambattista Valli went back to the his extreme avant garde roots for his Spring 2015 Couture collection, which was presented in Paris yesterday. I really loved the collection, which is the opposite opinion to most that I have spoken too and read from. What people have come to know Giambattista for is amazing red carpet gown and cocktail dresses, when the over the top styles shown in yesterdays collection were the basis on what the house was founded on. The collection almost looked to me as a retrospective on several collections that Giambattista has presented in the past. Some of my favorite looks were ones that will most likely never see the likes of a red carpet. A white riffled full skirted cocktail dress white black stripes and bow on the bodice and the pink silk tunic and matching pant ensemble paired with the crazy dramatic pink ruffle cape. These are looks that I know will grace the pages of couture editorials but not the red carpets.
The looks above are more about what I can picture on the red carpets. Keira Knightley in the look all the way to the left, Nieves Alvarez in the black pant ensembles, Hailee Steinfeld in the pink confection in the center, and Emma Stone for both of the looks on the right side. The bones of this collection tell me that there might be many of a custom creation made for starlets to wear for events like the Oscars, Met Ball and Cannes, so those of you who are fearing for the state of red carpet glamour I am sure that the Giambattista Valli edge is not going anywhere anytime soon.

Runway Report: Christian Dior Spring 2015 Couture

If prior to the Christian Dior Spring 2015 Couture collection presentation yesterday that I would have archived 34 of the 54 looks that were presented, I probably would have laughed. Alas that is exactly what happened. There was soooooooo much about the presentation that I loved, starting with the two tiered set. The set reminded me of pussy galore, if she were an alien spider woman. I know that is so far left field, but it was awesome. The collection that came down the pink carpet covered pipe steps, which no model tripped coming down, was just as flabbergasting as the set that surrounded it. Classic 1950's and 60's cocktail dresses walked the runway along side Pretty Woman hooker dresses, futuristic print catsuits, vinyl raincoats (I NEED ONE), paired with skintight latex crotch high boots just made for a collection that kept me begging for more. On paper there is absolutely nothing about this collection that should work, but somehow it all does.

I can not wait to see Dior devotees rocking all kinds of red carpets in this collection. I will say that I was saddened to see that amongst the whole 54 look collection that there was one ONE gown. I was looking for the perfect Academy Awards gown for house spokesmodel Marion Cotillard, and there is a big contender for me if she is willing to take a HUGE fashion risk (you will see when I do my Academy Awards wish lists next month.) From the red carpet to editorial to stage performances, this collection is bound to make it on the backs of all of our favorite celebrities. There are even a few looks that I would LOVE to see Jennifer Lawrence wear!

Monday, January 26, 2015

Runway Report: Schiaparelli Spring 2015 Couture

Schiaparelli might be a country with no leader at the moment, creative director Marco Zanini left back in November, but the house is showing no signs of going anywhere. The atelier team stepped up and crafted an absolutely amazing collection that will have Schiaparelli devotees like Tilda Swinton and Italian Vogue Editor-in-Chief Franca Sozzani begging for more. I was pleasantly surprised with how the house kept the spirit alive despite not having a creative head. Opening with an oversized ivory double breasted suit paired with a blue felt Stephen Jones for Schiaparelli fez, I knew we were in for a treat. There might have only been 20 looks in the collection but each look made more fall in love more than the last.
The design team stuck to the archival Schiaparelli for inspirations picking ideas out of vintage prints and breathing them into new life for a modern couture clientele. We have really seen very little of Schiaparelli since the house re-launched just a year ago. Just six looks in the past 365 days, 3 from Tilda Swinton along with Sarah Jessica Parker, Lorde, and Chloe Grace Moretz, took to the red carpets and I think that this brand deserves much better than that. I want to red carpet queens like Cate Blanchett, Diane Kruger, Nicole Kidman and Rihanna to help bring this brand into the spotlight that it really deserves. I hope we see these looks at the Oscars, Met Ball and during Cannes.